A Brief History of Las Vegas
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From Railroad Town to Fever Dream
It’s an odd reality that a sleepy railroad town in the middle of the Mojave Desert could be transformed, so rapidly, into a neon drenched, fever dream city on acid. But 1931 brought with it the opening of the Hoover Dam and some 21,000 hardworking men to the state of Nevada to build it. Combine that with the legalisation of local gambling and an influx of mobster activity, and there’s no surprise that within one hundred years, the strip’s audacious expansion has produced an unrelenting spectacle of awe and entertainment.
Las Vegas isn’t just a city, it’s an experience. And perhaps it’s the excessive nature of practically everything that famously divides visitors. It’s a place where you can lose your inhibitions, dignity and a week’s salary in under an hour. A place to feast like Tudor royalty, revel in world class performances and unapologetically indulge in every form of man made entertainment on the planet (as long as you’re prepared to pay for it).
Before arriving I had already surmised that there was no substance to Las Vegas, but was I correct? And more importantly, did it matter? Read on to discover my first time visitor’s uncensored account of the madness, the magic and the hidden costs of Sin City.
First Impressions of Las Vegas
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Is It Worth the Hype?
Walking down the Strip for the first time unlocks a sheer sensory overload. I was there for five days and nights in early September, celebrating my 30th with my partner, and every time we stepped outside the heat hit like walking into a hairdryer. From flashing billboards, to the dinging of slot machines and the unmistakable scent of excitement and overpriced margaritas. To your left, the Eiffel Tower, to your right, an Egyptian pyramid, and straight ahead, a fairytale castle. Day or night the street is filled with tourists from every walk of life and street performers doing their best to hustle them. Subtle is not in the Las Vegas dictionary. It will try to dazzle, tempt and entertain, and if you find yourself grinning and a gasp under a neon glow, you’ll soon realise, it’s working.
Best Things To Do in Las Vegas
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Highlights and Hidden Gems
Casinos in Las Vegas, A First-Time Gambler’s Lesson
Every hotel operates in a world of its own, but there are some common threads to unite them, primarily, casinos. If, like me, you’re no gambler, you might wonder whether Vegas is a poor choice of destination and that’s a question we will continue to address, but for now, just know that I did feel obliged to dedicate a couple of hours to immersing myself in the activity this town’s foundations were built upon. And as a novice gambler, my experience was equal parts intriguing and expensive.
Casinos are intentional time warps designed to trap their victims for hours or even days at a time. The vast windowless, clockless ground floors attract a strange assembly of gamblers to uphold the distinctive, unusual ambience. Disorderly stag dos circling roulette wheels, suited businessmen seated at tables and solitary tracksuits hypnotised by slot machines. I lost £50 in ten minutes, making it easy to see why casinos regularly report 1.25 million dollars in daily revenue. And when you know that, free drinks feel like less of a perk and more of an entitlement.
Las Vegas: Icons, Oddities and Unforgettable Experiences
Best Views of the Las Vegas Strip
An after dark, birds eye view of the strip allows you to fully appreciate the madness of your surroundings. Scale the Eiffel Tower at Paris Hotel or take a ride on the High Roller, a 550-foot observation wheel, at The LINQ, to marvel at the panoramic views of the strip. Both options cost around £20 per person, which in comparison to the fifteen minute helicopter tours (£100 per person), qualifies as a Las Vegas bargain.
Things You Can Only Do in Las Vegas
If you want Vegas at its most delightfully odd, start at The Venetian and let a singing gondolier ferry you along the indoor or outdoor canals. If value for money is not top of mind, a private ten minute glide will set you back about £150, and you can usually arrange it on the day. For something easier on the wallet, wander to Bellagio Patisserie and stand in gleeful awe at the 27 foot chocolate fountain, a glass encased river of cocoa that feels lifted straight from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Then step outside for the Fountains of Bellagio, which dance every thirty minutes in the afternoon and every fifteen minutes from 8 pm until midnight, a free front row spectacle for first time visitors.
Best Shows in Las Vegas, Book a Show or Two
A trip to Vegas would not be complete without at least one live show or concert. Seasonal residencies from global superstars happen nightly at hotels and venues along the strip, including PH Live, Allegiant Stadium, The Colosseum, Sphere and Dolby Live. Coveted shows from recent years have included various performances from Cirque du Soleil, Penn & Teller’s fusion of magic and comedy and some of the biggest concerts from the greats of our time including U2, Eagles, Red Hot Chilli Peppers and Shania Twain.
Las Vegas Museums with a Twist
You might not think museums should be synonymous with Las Vegas, but this city does eccentric exhibitions better than most. The Mob Museum is an interactive dive into the city’s criminal past, where you can sit in the docks of reconstructed federal courtrooms, trap your travel companion(s) in cell blocks and sample moonshine at an underground prohibition era speakeasy.
The Neon Boneyard is an eclectic graveyard of deceased Vegas attractions, including ominous motel signs, the Hard Rock Guitar Sign and Aladdin’s lamp. It emanates vintage pop cultural history and a cool eeriness that you won’t find elsewhere (except, perhaps, Burning Man).
Fremont Street Experience, A Downtown Must
Just a fifteen minute Uber drive from the main strip, The Fremont Street Experience is undoubtedly a must visit attraction during your stay. Housed inside a giant neon tunnel, Fremont Street delivers a gritty, cooler version of Las Vegas, where you can enjoy western-themed bars and restaurants, historic casino frontages and live street entertainment. Its lower budget brilliance has been the backdrop of many cult classic films like Diamonds Are Forever, Casino, and Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas.
Las Vegas Pool Parties and Mega Clubs
If you came to Vegas to party, you’ll likely be delighted, if not bewildered by the options. Daytime debauchery is easily found at Tao Beach Club, Marquee, Encore and Drai’s, all of which offer rooftop pools, sushi platters and swanky cabanas from March to October. By night, resident megaclubs Omnia, XS, Liv and Hakkasan party until 4am with world-renowned DJs, confetti showers and champagne that definitely isn’t on happy hour.
Entry fees vary wildly depending on the venue, night, and whether you’ve charmed your way onto a guest list. On average expect entry costs of £30 – £50 for men and £10 – £30 for women. Basic drinks (spirit and mixer) hover around the £15 mark, unless you’ve secured a table or cabana which generally operate on a minimum spend basis (starting from £225 to £300+). Peak weekends and headline DJs can dramatically increase those numbers and then of course your servers will expect at least a 25% tip for their beauty and goodwill.
Day Trips from Las Vegas, Grand Canyon West and More
If you need to escape the madness for something completely opposite, but equally astounding, the Grand Canyon’s west rim is only 130 miles from the strip. Whilst the helicopter tours feel thrilling, they often require a 5am wake up call and cost several hundred pounds for only a few hours. Instead, consider renting a classic car for half the price and take the scenic route through the breathtaking desert landscape to explore the canyon on foot, at your own pace.
Where To Stay in Las Vegas
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Best Resorts and Areas
To seasoned travellers the hotel experience might feel a little crude. You won’t be convinced you’ve teleported to a different country or period in history. Imitation marble pillars, counterfeit sculptures and the overwhelming choice of restaurants and shopping centres debunk that possibility immediately. But the magnitude of their presence is spectacular and synonymous with the spirit of Las Vegas.
The size and amenities of every hotel are staggering, and while most are engineered for mass appeal and maximum markup, it’s hard not to wander in awe at their scale and decor. Hotel sightseeing is an initiation in Las Vegas, but with nearly 40 now constructed along the 7km strip, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to see them all. Here’s a shortlist of the ones that lived in my memory long after check out:
The Venetian: average price per night £200 – £300 (5★); best for romantics and aesthetes.
Our humble abode was an impressive two tiered suite, accessible via a 10 minute walk through Renaissance inspired walkways, interior canal systems and colossal art installations. The suite included a luxurious bathroom, expansive living space and floor to ceiling windows with partial views of the downtown skyline. It would have been easy to revel for longer in the regal quarters and interior canal systems of the Venetian but we resisted this urge by locating our nearest hotel exit on day one.
Caesar’s Palace: average price per night £130 – £200 (5★); best for theatrical types and food lovers.
Caesar’s is Vegas at its most theatrical. Set in 85 acres of land, it’s a place where Roman excess meets modern indulgence. Conveniently set in the middle of the strip, guests and visitors dine like emperors at the world-renowned Bacchanal Buffet, bathe in the spa and seven pools of the Garden of the Gods Oasis and cheer from the stalls of a 4,000 capacity theatre, aptly named, The Colosseum.
The Bellagio: average price per night £225 – £300 (5★); best for cinematic devotees.
Vegas’s answer to timeless elegance, The Bellagio’s iconic hotel status makes it feel more Monte Carlo than Middle America. Crowned by Dale Chihuly’s Fiori di Como glass masterpiece ceiling, it’s home to Michelin-starred restaurants like Picasso and Le Cirque, a vast indoor botanical garden of elaborate floral displays, and of course, the legendary fountain show that starred in Ocean’s Eleven.
Wynn Las Vegas: average price per night £215 – £275 (5★); best for design lovers and hedonists.
Since opening in 2005, the curved bronzed tower of Wynn Las Vegas has been the recipient of Condé Nast’s best resort in Nevada no less than ten times. Stylish, modern luxury with showstopping features and effortless cool, it boasts floor-to-ceiling windows, a free multimedia auditorium entitled Lake of Dreams, an art-deco inspired super club, and a championship 18-hole golf course set within its grounds – a multimedia spectacle in every sense.
And since Vegas is not short of anything other than simplicity, here are a shortlist of five other hotels to intensify your choice paralysis:
The Cosmopolitan: Sleek, modern party hotel with rooftop pools and bold design; avg. price per night £189 (5★); best for groups wanting vibrant luxury.
ARIA Resort & Casino: Progressive contemporary hotel with a huge casino and luxe spa; avg. price per night £225 (5★); best for business travellers and those feeling lucky.
Waldorf Astoria: Polished, non-gaming oasis above the Strip with fine dining and serene spa; avg. price per £275 (5★); best for those avoiding casino chaos.
Four Seasons Las Vegas: Luxury boutique hotel inside Mandalay Bay with an adult-only pool; avg. price per night £285 (5★); best for honeymooners and well-heeled travellers.
Fontainebleau Las Vegas: Bold new resort with stylish nightlife and fresh flair; avg. price per night £130 (5★); best for those seeking a more affordable, modern Las Vegas.
Where To Eat and Drink in Las Vegas , Restaurants, Buffets and Bars
Las Vegas dining is a theatrical experience in its own right, and with hundreds of eateries to choose from, it can be hard to know where to start. From retro diners and bottomless buffets to secret speakeasies and eleven-course Michelin tasting menus, this is a city that liberally caters to the extensive demographic of visitors it needs to feed. The best approach is to research your options based on budget and culinary mood, but for a little inspiration, here are my top 10 Las Vegas gastronomic experiences for all budgets.
Theatrical and One of a Kind:
Superfrico (The Cosmopolitan) (c. £100 pp)
A Psychedelic dinner with glow-in-the-dark cocktails, roaming performers, and compulsory participation (be warned).
BLACKOUT “Dining in the Dark” (c. £65 – £90pp) A blindfolded, multi-course experience in pitch darkness, led by servers with night vision goggles. It’s surreal, humbling, and surprisingly emotional. Caution: not for everyone and might put you off ordering the soup for life.
Luxury, Michelin and Tasting Menus
WAKUDA Omakase Experience (The Palazzo) (c.£375pp)
A Michelin-starred table hidden in plain sight at The Palazzo Resort. Expect a mixture of skill and artistry as the chefs craft an unexpected culinary journey in front of your eyes.
The Buffet at Wynn Las Vegas (c.£50 – £130pp depending on upgrades)
A gold-standard buffet with 16 live cooking stations, fresh seafood, prime cuts, and a dessert station that looks like it was designed by Willy Wonka’s himself.
Hidden Gems and Speakeasies
Here Kitty Kitty Vice Den (Resorts World) (c.£15 – £20pp + drinks)
Find the bookshelf inside Famous Foods Street Eats, whisper “meow,” and step into a sultry, password-protected cocktail lounge with neon tigers and killer kitty mixology.
The Golden Tiki(c.£30 – £45pp + drinks)
A bizarre hallucination of animatronic parrots, pirate skulls, and cocktails that arrive in flaming pineapples. It’s kitsch, it’s camp, and it’s 100% committed to the brand.
Budget, Fun and Full of Personality
Evel Pie (Fremont Street) (£10 – £15pp)
A rock n’ roll pizza joint fashioning Evel Knievel memorabilia. This is a loud, greasy dive bar with toppings that will make you question your moral decision-making.
The Peppermill Fireside Lounge(c.£30- £45pp)
A Vegas classic where fireside booths converge to share supersized cocktails and spaghetti plates that could feed a family of six.
Practical Las Vegas Travel Tips I Wish I Had Known
Dos
- Set a Daily Budget: Vegas has a special talent for making money disappear. Give yourself limits. Then comes the hard part of trying to stick to them.
- Add 35% – 40% to just about Everything: Menu prices are just a starting point. Once taxes, tips, and fees show up, that $25 cocktail is a $40 experience with token lime wedge.
- Book in Advance: Spontaneity will only get you so far in Las Vegas. With forty million annual visitors, you’ll want to book any non-negotiables (shows, fancy restaurants etc.) well in advance to avoid disappointment in the casino lobby.
- Pack Comfy Shoes: Walking should not be avoided! It’s the best way to immerse yourself in the spirit of Las Vegas, whether that’s between hotels, across lobby floors, or most often, just to find the exit.
- Take a Reusable Water Bottle: It’s easy to forget you’re in a desert when surrounded by extravagant structures but avoid paying up to $24 to stay hydrated by carrying your own water bottle.
- Explore Beyond the Strip: Don’t just casino-hop. Fremont Street, the Mob Museum, Neon Boneyard, and local eats give you the original Vegas flavour that the mega hotels can’t manufacture.
- Embrace the Madness: Vegas is not subtle so allow yourself to be charmed by the chaos. Find pleasure in the themed hotels, ride something ridiculous, and prioritise experiences the rest of the world doesn’t cater for.
- Acknowledge the Contradictions: Vegas might be glossy on the surface but, day or night, the city’s homelessness crisis is impossible to miss. While several initiatives are under (Courtyard Homeless Resource Center and Clark County’s LINK programme) to help tackle the problem, you should still expect to see its reality. Even beside ostentatious hotel facades; awareness matters more than avoidance.
Don’ts
- Walk Around Without a Plan: You don’t need a minute by minute itinerary, but if there’s something you really want to do, plan for it. A sense of direction will allow you to make the most of your visit, and save you from aimless laps around identical casino floors.
- Fall for Tourist Traps: Not every “VIP upgrade” is worth it, especially at the beach clubs and night clubs. Do your research & read the reviews to avoid feeling disappointed and ripped off.
- Assume Anything is Included: Entry fees often don’t include drinks. Resort fees aren’t in the booking price and menus don’t include taxes or tips.
- Rely on Public Transport: Buses can be unreliable and irregular due to traffic along the strip, so your best option is to walk or opt for taxis to save time. We saved a lot of time and energy for the sake of a few dollars.
- Make Eye Contact with Street Performers: Unless you’re emotionally and financially prepared to tip a couple of shirtless cowboys at least £50 (each) for a photo, keep your gaze fixed forward.
Is Las Vegas Worth It?
So is Vegas for you? Firstly let’s debunk the notion that Vegas is just for gamblers and hangover style stag dos. While a boost to your trip fund might ease the pain of inflated costs, the ungodly priced cocktails and the street performers who demand dollars for merely existing, what you get in return is the ultimate spectacle of human nature in all its excessive glory.
Whether you come for the hedonism or the high-end experiences, Vegas doesn’t care. It will be here long after your budget and your better judgment have given out. And if you’re prepared for that, you might, like me, be able to forgive the illusion, the expense, the sheer audacity of it all, because in truth, I had an absolute blast. And if I’m going to part with a small fortune and endure a week of jet lag, that’s one thing I want guaranteed.
Las Vegas Travel Planner , Getting There, When to Go, Money Tips & More
How to get to Las Vegas
Flights go direct from London and Manchester to the Harry Reid International Airport, which is around a fifteen minute drive from the Strip. Because of the proximity, pre-booking transfers isn’t necessary, but it may shave a few dollars off the £25 charged by Ubers on arrival.
When to go to Las Vegas
Summer months regularly reach temperatures of 40+ degrees with little breeze, so Spring (March – May) and autumn (September – November) are popular times to visit, meaning you might feel a bit cooler, but you won’t avoid the crowds. You might also want to avoid major conventions and peak holidays that further increase visitor numbers, including Spring Break (end March – mid April), EDC Carnival in May and the Formula 1 Grand Prix in November. While Vegas is open 365 days per year, the pool and beach clubs tend to close between the end of October and March, which might impact your decision.
Is Las Vegas Expensive? How Much Money Should I Take to Las Vegas?
Vegas is hard to do on a budget because of all of the tipping culture and hidden costs you will incur. Personally, I’d advise saving for this trip so you can experience it exactly as you want to. For a little perspective, the average cocktail price is between £18 – £20.
I budgeted for three hundred pounds per day spending money which allowed me to do an activity or attraction (such as the Mob Museum or a pool party) and indulge in two meals out everyday. That didn’t include the two shows I had booked in advance. That’s not to say you can’t do it for less, and you can most certainly do it for more. Save by visiting midweek, eating set lunches and booking shows early but remember the resort fees will be added onto your accommodation rate on arrival (c. £30-£50 per night depending on where you’re staying).
What is the etiquette and culture in Las Vegas?
Las Vegas caters for all manner of clientele therefore the etiquette and culture is very much dependent on where you choose to spend your time. In general, it is casual by day and dressy by night, with many restaurants and night time venues operating strict entry rules. Service is highly attentive because staff can expect to at least double their wages in tips. Some servers will even circle the suggested amount on your bill. Do not take it personally, pay what you can afford and what you feel the service deserves.
How many days do you need in Las Vegas?
Taking into account the eleven hour flight and potential for jet lag, I wouldn’t go for less than four days, in which time you can cover the icons. Five days will give you more flexibility to include a day trip to the Grand Canyon, see an extra show or have a more relaxed pool day to break up the madness. If you love a big city buzz you could happily stay a week, but if you are easily overwhelmed by constant stimulus, keep it to a few nights or skip Las Vegas entirely!
Do you need a car in Las Vegas?
Most people don’t bother as The Strip is a walkable distance for most and also the best way to immerse yourself in the sights and sounds. Ubers, the Monorail and the Deuce bus are easily sourced and you can rent cars from all of the hotels if you’re planning a road trip out to Red Rock Canyon, Hoover Dam, Valley of Fire or Grand Canyon West (highly recommended!).
Are there free things to do in Las Vegas?
Costs aside, there are plenty of things that are free to do in Las Vegas, not least exploring the strip and 40 hotels that reside on it. Each one has lobbies, gardens, installations, shopping centres and a myriad of other attractions to enjoy.
